Waffles, a delectable treat made from leavened batter or dough, are cooked between two patterned plates and are believed to be among the oldest desserts in existence. These delightful snacks, often adorned with honey, whipped cream, syrup, or jam, are perfect for breakfast or a quick bite, sometimes enjoyed on the go. They are immensely popular in northwestern European countries, the United States, and Asia, with variations ranging from crispy and sweet to savory, and with grooves that can be deep or shallow.

In Belgium, they are known as gaufres, and the country boasts an infinite array of waffle varieties. But where did these scrumptious delights truly originate? Scholars suggest that the roots of this sweet or savory treat stretch back thousands of years, with origins possibly traced to Ancient Greece. However, Giorgio Franchetti, author of "Dining With The Ancient Romans," posits that waffles are likely descended from a particular Roman delicacy. "They are very likely the descendants of the popular 'crustulum' (plural 'crustula'), which were sweet biscuits cherished by the ancient Romans,"

Franchetti, a culinary historian of ancient Rome, tells CNN. "The term, in Latin, clearly indicates that these biscuits were crispy, with a crumbly crust that melted in the mouth." Although no historical documents detail the shape of crustula, Franchetti believes they were probably flat biscuits, crafted with the same fundamental ingredients as waffles and baked within two heated irons. The method of preparing crustula is thought to mirror that of contemporary waffles, although it remains uncertain whether crustula initially featured the iconic grooves.

According to Franchetti's research, crustula likely evolved from panis obelius, a special bread with olives or fresh figs created by the ancient Greeks. This bread was cooked between two irons and consumed during Dionysian rituals, which typically included drinking, dancing, and sacrifice. "Crustula were very simple biscuits, made with flour, honey, and lard. Today, waffles are made with butter; however, Roman philosopher Pliny the Elder writes that the use of butter distinguished the aristocratic, snobbish patricians from the commoner plebeians,"

he explains. After discovering texts on crustula by Pliny the Elder and Roman lyric poet Horace, Franchetti collaborated with "archeo-cook" Cristina Conte to revive crustulas from obscurity. Romans favored cheeses but disdained butter, considering it a poor byproduct of milk and primarily used for cosmetics, according to Franchetti. Instead, they prepared their crustula with lard or animal fat.

It is believed that these biscuits were initially consumed during Roman religious ceremonies and sold by street vendors known as "crustulari," who could be found along the alleys of ancient Rome, usually near temples and places of worship. Franchetti explains that the coveted sweets later became a type of reward that teachers working for wealthy families would bestow upon their most promising students.

In his Satires poems, Horace writes that teachers would typically give crustula "to children to encourage them to learn the alphabet." Over time, these simple, tasty biscuits managed to conquer a significant part of the banquet ceremony—dessert—and were served at the conclusion of a meal. Crustula were so popular with ancient Roman writers that several even mentioned them in their works. Satirist Gaius Lucilius, considered the inventor of Roman satire, once wrote that he "enjoyed indulging in crustula alone," while other authors like playwright Plautus and philosophers Seneca and Lucius Apuleius also referenced them.

After the advent of Christianity, crustula were assimilated into Christian recipes, according to Franchetti. So, how did these treats evolve into the waffles we know today? Franchetti believes that the crustula cooking technique was likely refined during the Middle Ages, when the first grooves may have appeared in the biscuits, drawing them closer to modern-day waffles. Ferratelle—a biscuit that has withstood the test of time in various parts of Italy—is believed to be the link between Roman crustulas and waffles.

"In Molise and Abruzzo, locals are weaned on ferratelle, which are consumed year-round and come in different shapes and sizes," says Franchetti. The name "ferratelle" originates from the metal press or iron, which translates to "ferri" in Italian, a tool that is still used to make the biscuits in some places today. Ferratelle, also known as pizzelle, feature the tiny square grooves found on waffles, while the basic recipe and ingredients are most likely the same as those previously used for crustula, according to Franchetti. In the past, ferratelle were always homemade and were particularly popular during Christmas and carnival celebrations. Households would use special irons engraved with their family coat of arms or initials to mark their ferratelle.

"The Romans handed down to us these divine biscuits. We've been enjoying them since the dawn of time," says Maria Teresa Spagnoli of L’Aquila pastry shop Dolci Aveja. In the 1700s, parents would gift ferratelle irons with the family’s initials to their soon-to-be-married daughters as part of the dowry. "Today we eat them for breakfast, as an after-dinner treat with a liquor digestive, or during car trips," adds Spagnoli. Still shaped inside irons, the Abruzzo ferratelle is made with eggs, olive oil, milk, vanilla, and grated lemon peel.

Those sold in L’Aquila come in various sizes, including diamonds, stars, and hearts. Alongside the original recipe, Dolci Aveja, the top producer of ferratelle in L’Aquila, makes variants containing cereals and a salty version with rosemary, which pairs well with prosecco as an aperitif. Preparing ferratelle is still a significant ritual for those who produce it.

"According to our tradition, to make perfect, authentic ferratelle, you have to say one Hail Mary while cooking the first side, and one Lord’s Prayer for the other side," says Spagnoli. To expedite the cooking, locals in Abruzzo also use electric irons today. With this method, there’s no need to turn the ferratelle over during the process, as it cooks simultaneously on both sides.

In Vasto, a coastal town in Abruzzo, ferratelle features dark chocolate toppings and are called "catarrette." Locals cherish the ancient irons used by their ancestors and engraved with their family initials. Vasto historian Gianfranco Bonacci recalls how his grandmother would bake ferratelle on Sundays or special occasions, and the family would enjoy them throughout the week. "It was a daily treat.

Unfortunately, my family has lost the old irons, and today it’s hard to find a blacksmith who makes them, as there are very few blacksmiths left," says Bonacci. In nearby Italian regions, including Latium, there are ferratelle varieties with different names. Waffle-like cookies can be found in Liguria, while in Piedmont, they’re known as gofri and come with a deep rough honeycomb pattern, reminiscent of Belgian gaufres.

So, how and when did these "Italian waffles" migrate to northern Europe and the US? "The Romans, alongside their culture, also spread their foods throughout the empire. Crustula had many legs and ended up all the way in nowadays France, Benelux, and England," says Franchetti. By the time the Roman Empire collapsed, crustula had been assimilated into the local gastronomy of these lands. Further development likely occurred along European trade routes during the Middle Ages, when the Italian honeycomb ferratelle were exported to northern Europe.

Finally, the leap to the New World occurred in the early 1600s with the first Dutch settlers who landed in New York City. "That’s when the crustula-ferratelle evolved into waffles and took root in America," says Franchetti. Today, waffles can be found almost everywhere in the world. In the US, August 24th, the anniversary of the day Dutch-American Cornelius Swarthout was granted a patent for the first waffle iron in the States, is celebrated as National Waffle Day.